Ok.. as always start by opening the box and laying out the parts.. everything is "factory assembled" but this is purely for parts count.. pull it apart and do everything...



NOTE: All the bolts will have machining oil on them, clean them and the threads into the CNC else the loctite may not hold. I use cleaning alchol...

I start a bit different to the manual and do the front transmission first... pull it apart.. clean the bolts.. Please pay special note to the pin that holds the umbrella gear in, and the set screw.. pull the gears off, and run the set screw through several times till you can see it go through the hole for the pin.... I use red loctite for this, and then use green to keep the spur gear in place... I put it on a set of pliers and let gravity hold it in place till it sets...






When you put the side spaces back on the plates.. for the bolts that go through both the plate and the standoffs, put half the length in, then you can fit the hex driver through the standoff, and into the bolt.. hold the driver still, and turn the standoff onto the bolt. You can use a spanner to get it pretty tight.. you notice the flat spots on the standoffs that will allow you to do this.

I also grease the gears now, as it is very easy to get to

 

Now back to as per the manual... Make sure you sand the frames. The frames felt pretty smooth already, but it never hurts to go over them...

Put the frame together... please pay attention to the orientation of the battery tray slides.. the groove is at the bottom. And since this is going into Delrin, I use a little bit of CA, and dont over tighten.. the CA will hold it in for you. Also unless specifically mentioned in the manual, do not tighten any frame screws yet, as you will need to make sure the frame is square before you tighten them.




then do the plates.

 

Now the bearing blocks.. as mentioned these are thrusted, with radial bearings, so very much like the setup in your blade grips.... pay attention to the orientation, and make sure the brass spacer is in...

once done, mount it all onto the frame side... no before you put the middle bearing block in, mount the aileron cyclics.. will make your life easier.

 

Put the other from on... then put the main shaft in, hold it on a flat surface, and make sure the frame is square.. and tighten the bolts... Once done I go back and re-do all the screws with loctite one at a time... Do not tighten the transmission screws, we will need to adjust the mesh later.

 

Next is the main gear... pull it all apart... with the bronze bushings.. I got some 1200grit sandpaper from bunnings, put some oil on the sandpaper, and polished in inside of the bushings, so that when they were on the shaft they span freely. Use some red Loctite to hold them in place, and oil on the one way bearing.. once assembled you should be able to spin the gear freely with no resistance...




Then mount into the frame.. you will note that there is a shim in the same bag as the main gear. This sits between the auto gear and the lower bearing.. it is super tight.. to do it.. back off the lower bearing block.. lift the main shaft up a bit.. and then slide the main shaft back down so it is through the shim. Push the bearing block back up and into place.. then line up the main shaft and put in the bolt.. it may be tight, but when done there will be no play in the shaft.



Now set the mesh for the transmission gear and auto gear... Treat it as the same as pinion to motor.. slightest bit of backlash.

Mount the motor mount and pinion support, put in the motor if you have it, and put on the ESC plate and anti-rotation bracket.. I installed the ESC and Bec now, as it made it easier.

 

Servo install. Now I should have done the aileron cyclics earlier, as it would have been easier, but I didn't. so what I did was undo the entire top bearing block, dont forget the anti-rotation bracket.. lift it up, install the servos, put it back down and tighten it all back up.. do it earlier to save the grief..



well thats all I am up to.. I will post more when I build more.

 

Totally awesome that you've started a 766 build thread here, post up more pics and especially of the head build when u get to it.

 

Nice Tony, awesome detail!

 

Ok next is the swash... this swash is fully servicable.... pull it apart clean, add oil and put back together.. take not that most of the link balls use RED loctite..




Make up your links.,.. now these are turnbuckles.. so one side is reverse threaded.. if you look one side will have a little groove in it.. this is your reverse thread. And don't forget to size those ball links.


put on the swash and the links..

 

Next comes the head.. and what a head it is.. its big, burly and has a nice weight to it... pull it apart.. make sure to clean the bolts and put her back together. Now of note is that you can change the dampening to be what you want.. harder or softer, but, seeing you get a defined combo in the kit, I will go with that. Also the ball links in the arms have 2 spots. Unless you Mr Smooth, the recommendation is the outter hole in the manual, and I have gone with that.




Put the head on... she is starting to come together!

 

It looks really cool. Interested to check it out at HH
Simon

 

WOW!!! it does look really nice. Between @Manyc and @hardsy the race is on for the first maiden! Will you have it ready for the weekend @Manyc? I like the light weight design of the main shaft holders. The dampening method has me intrigued - how similar to the chronos? Whats all the gunk on the main gear.. not like you to have "anything" on your helis @Manyc. The center swash ball links align with the outer swash ball links which should help tremendously with geometry. It looks to be designed for minimal weight overall. Not keen on the landing skids - perhaps could have been a bit more imaginative. But then again i would rather have landing skids that work rather than landing skids that look good.

 

oK now onto the tail... put on the bearings and glue on the ends... it pretty straight forward.. but you will note, that it is going to be a pain to try and replace any bearings on this Torque Tube...




Now for the actual boom.. for this it is recommended you drill a hole in the boom, and pin it.. now you will note that it says in the manual to not let the boom extend past the boom/electronics mount... so I put it in.. line it up so its a bit back.. clamp the boom in, then pull it out and drill it... Then insert the torque tube, but make sure it goes all the way in.. there should be about 15mm of tt sticking out..




Control Rod.. now DONT DO WHAT I DID. I read the line in the manual saying dont put one end till after you put it through the rod guides.. it means the Metal ends, and not the ball links.. they will go through, but my god is it hard.. you have been warned... anyway when you do one end, I use masking tape to hold it in place.. slide it through the rods and epoxy the other end... It's also worth adding the "teflon" heatshrink before this.. so it all lines up nice... and remember, with the teflon heat from the middle out, and leave it for a good 10 min before doing anything after you shrink it, this allows it to re-harden.




With the boom supports, you epoxy these as well.. to get the best alignment, wait till the boom is on, then use it to line it up, and install them, so they are properly aligned. Then once they are set, remove, and drill, then put in the set screw..

 

Now for the tail case.. put apart loctite and put it back together.. take note of the set screw for the gear on the output shaft.. take it apart clean it out.. make sure there are no burrs and put her back in.. once again, I used red loctite for this.. you do not want this coming out. Also there is a shim you can move round if the meshing is wrong. Mine was fine, so I left it where it was...


Note the two screws protruding here? one will be flush when the tail fin is on.. the other is used to pin the tail case to the boom.. dont loctite this one.. leave it backed off when putting the tail case on the boom, or it won't go in very far...


The rest is pretty standard... the inner parts of the thrust bearings didnt want to come out.. I just left them in there.. made sure the ones that came out where the "outside" ones, cleaned, greased and put back and used red loctite. Now remember to size these links as well, else the tail will be very stiff...




When you put it on, use a set square or your eye to get it straight.. clamp is a put, and drill a hole for the screw to pin it in place...



Here is just some canopy bling





then I started on the wiring... just because I know I am no good... and I can do it in stages...

 

It's Brent's not Hardsy's... and he will.. also the shiz is dryfluid.. I usually use Triflow.. but this is apparently cleaner.. and it is easier to apply

 

Its looking very close to finish and i know @hardsy has finished the build! I dont think @brent77 maidened it today due to too much celebration... Quite a few people are waiting to see how this flies, me included.

 

Where did you buy the 766 from @Manyc and how much? Did you get a special deal.

 

He's sponsored, they probably paid @Manyc $1,500 to build and fly it and he probably said "Ok, Frack it, you have hassled me enough, send one over in a limo with all the associated bits and I'll do it. Then send out the limo to take me to the flying field to fly it...The things I have to do for you!, Oh, and include those girls like you did last time"
Simon

 

BTW @Manyc, epic build thread, great stuff
Simon